Archive for the ‘other’ Category

Battery relocation

Monday, December 14th, 2009


The rears fit a little bit better, although they’re still quiteflush. The tires on the wheels are 195/50VR15s (yeah they’re old enough to have the V speed rating in the size) so I’m not sure if even 185s could help me.

Anyway today I started work on battery relocation.


The plan is to run the battery power straight to the starter, and then the accessories and alternator off the lug on the starter.


Battery box and finished terminal, I still need to make the ground cable. I won’t be able to use the rear shock tower brace while this box is in, but some day I plan on going to small Deka battery and replacing the large conventional one.


Battery cable on rear floorboard and under rear seat. Don’t worry about the ghetto looking fuel return line in the background, that’s not its final state.


After switching sides under the driver’s seat, the battery cable runs along the inner rocker panel, up the kick panel and through a hole drilled right above the speedometer cable hole.

Poly steering coupler, VDO gauge restoration, TPS bracket

Friday, August 7th, 2009

Been doing some random stuff the past week.


OOPS YOUR STEERING COLUMN FELL OUT


Actually I was changing the steering column rag joint. The factory manual calls for you to just loosen a bolt that clamps the flange on the steering wheel side to the splines on the shaft, but like that would work with how much dirt/grime/corrosion was undoubtedly in there. So instead I decided to just pull the whole column out.


SAFETY FIRST

Now because I’m poor and stupid I decided to “restore” some old VDO gauges that I had lying around that I wanted to use and have look nice.

Water temp gauge:


Sanding…


Sanding some more…


Primed 🙂


It came out decent enough, although I masked a little bit too much off and instead of there being black paint everywhere there’s a little bit of surface rust showing up. 🙁

So I thought I’d try a different method with this tach, leaving some glass exposed so that I could later just go over it with an x-acto knife to clear any stray paint off.


Left side is sanded and the right side isn’t, I think the bezel was found on the deck of the Titanic or something


Getting there


Primed!


First coat of satin black Rustoleum


Looks good and I’m happy with the outcome. I found the tach on craigslist for $35, apparently it came out of some guy’s old bug. It’s perfect for my car, I ditched the stock tach because it was on the bad side of intermittent, but this one has the same count (8000rpm) and fits right into the trim ring on the factory gauge pod. It also seems to be a little bit more accurate than the other tach in terms of keeping up with the actual engine speed (not flinging around like crazy on rev matches), although unfortunately I think it reads about 100rpm too high. but I have one question: for some reason I have to set it to 8-cyl in order for it to read correctly, any reason for this?

Anyway onto tasks more pertinent to the project at hand

Some new junkyard purchases


’89 E30 325i in-tank fuel pump and level sender. It’s a direct drop-in replacement for the 2002 fuel sender, although it’s about 10mm shorter than the stock one so the tank capacity effectively decreases. However, the level sender still functions as it should so there shouldn’t be any surprises, and I figure with the fuel injection I’ll have the same or better range with less fuel.


’84 E30 318i ICV assembly. The cold start injector is missing, but $15 for something I wasn’t planning on using anyway was a bit too much to ask. I had a busted one anyway that I used the plenum cover for.


VDO apparently isn’t ideal for megasquirt, and I’ve heard that the Bosch unit is the way to go, but there really isn’t much evidence to support that


Closeup of the plenum cover/idle air inlet. I’ll have to make up some kind of blockoff plate/plug for that hole, I’m thinking just an M8x1.25 Allen head bolt with some loctite on the threads should suffice.


I made a TPS adapter plate to allow me to put the Nissan potentiometer-style TPS on the 325i throttle body because the bolts on the Nissan part are much further together than the BMW switch-type.


All finished! I had a hell of a time getting the holes to line up everywhere, but the stepped ring on the TPS fits perfectly into the large hole on the adapter plate, and all the bolt holes line up pretty well now that they’re filed out a little bit.


I didn’t take into account the space the M5x.80 bolts would take up behind the plate, but I made short work of the problem with a few files.


Now comes the problem with using the 51mm M20 throttle body versus the 45mm M10 throttle body. The bolt patterns are a little bit different between the two. meatpotato in his thread bought a part from Tom Rafalski’s 02Again that clocks the bigger throttle body and adapts it onto the intake manifold, rotated so that all the bolt patterns line up. But after looking at how close this one is to fitting on its own, and understanding how little force is on a throttle body, I wonder – Is there any reason at all why I can’t just cut the aluminum from the shorter holes and leave them open-ended, and just file out the closer holes?


I started to play around with putting that pulley on the lathe, unfortunately this 3-jaw chuck we have was out .030″ which is far, far more than ideal. I messed around with the 4-jaw chuck and while I got a lot closer it was frustrating for a newbie like me to make and adjustment and then have the thing go from .018″ out to .113″ out.

For some reason my dad wants to slather some JB Weld on the polished surface, and machine it down leaving the epoxy in the groove left by the front main seal. I’m afraid this will crack, either that or be too rough for the seal after it’s been machined down. I’m trying to tell him to weld a bead on it but he seems reluctant to do that, which I don’t understand because a) we have the means to do it in about 3 minutes and b) it’s not currently centered on the chuck, not even close.

OK I’m done for now.