Archive for June, 2008

Monday, June 30th, 2008

PERFORMANCE UPGRADE
i just bought the stage 2 carburetion kit for 15,000cr

I finally got that stupid 32/36 Weber DGV on the car in a process that proved to be a little bit less than “bolt-on.”


I let the carb and all attaching pieces soak in chem-dip for 24 hours and then put in a rebuild kit. Looks almost clean enough to eat off of (if you ignore the residue in the choke arm passage and choke body.

After putting on the carb and still having the stupid thing shoot fire out the top, I resigned myself to checking out timing (but I really didn’t want to because I hadn’t touched it and there was no reason for me to have to >:(  ) …


hmmm – this cap’s less than 9 months old, and I didn’t even drive the car for 2 of those months. I’m surprised it ran at all like this.


That little cap had to be crammed into a hole left when the choke came off, it was sucking in tons of air (which is weird since it’s before the throttle plate)


It looks pretty 🙂 Now I need to find the air cleaner I had and then I will get some videos. It is a lot of fun when the secondary opens 🙂

Friday, June 27th, 2008

I punched a hole in that exhaust manifold trying to get a broken bolt out of it so I won’t be doing forced induction any time soon. The sound of dual sidedrafts at WOT far surpasses that of a turbo anyway.


Single barrel and manifold off…



… Two barrel and manifold on!

Unfortunately, this carb had been sitting outside for a while before I bought it, so despite my optimism about throwing it on and firing it up, it ran like shit. The first night it would throw gas out the top of the float bowl (there’s a little opening for the jets), the next day that problem went away but the car ran and idled like shit, the next day it idled fine but ran obviously rich… and then it was back to the 2nd problem, where the car would idle for about 50 revolutions and then miss and die. Or just run terribly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fcBBzfC_hRw

One time I even got a fireball to come out the top of the carb – but I never touched the timing throughout this process so I can’t see why that would be the problem. I checked the float level and it’s correct. I’ve heard that this could be caused by the electric idle jet to be malfunctioning, but I went ahead and bought a whole rebuild kit for the thing.

So, while the car was out of commission drivetrain-wise, I thought I’d turn my attention elsewhere.


Removing the sound deadening in the back. I was concerned by a small, dime-sized rust hole on the drain plug, so I wanted to take care of the problem before it became a huge problem.


A heat gun, scraper, razor blade and utility knife are what I used to make this big black gooey mess



Pretty much done…


Some steel wool and solvent later and I don’t have nearly as much rust as I thought I did. I’ll need to take a wire wheel to it and hit it with some primer, as well as probably cut out and patch that small spot of rust, but I’m relieved that it’s not totally cancerous.


The trunk area is totally filled with surface rust, luckily nothing terminal but I still need to take care of it. Using a paint/light rust removal wheel is taking away lots of surface rust but in areas where it’s more of a porous surface, it’s not doing a good job. Hopefully a wire wheel takes care of this and after it’s good to go I’ll hit it with some primer and paint it black.

I guess I’ll be getting used to doing body work since I have the joy of swapping that nose to come in the next few weeks. 😐

Tuesday, June 17th, 2008


On the rear bumpstops the whole 400 miles I need to figure out what’s up with my rear springs :\

Why did BMW have to make the stock exhaust manifold so close to a T3 flange? It’s so tempting to just drop everything else, get a MegaSquirt kit and go forced induction.

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

A couple of little things


Weber 32/36 DGAV,you can see that I removed the choke mechanism and butterflies in the background, I’ve been driving around with the Solex 36-40 PDSI without using the choke for about 6 months so I figure it shouldn’t be a huge problem. It’s also mostly because I don’t feel like hooking up the stupid water choke, and since I am fine without a choke, I decided to remove the butterflies for it too – more airflow and less turbulence! I need to get this thing on this week, before the autocross practice in Fontana, as well as my 400mi drive back to Marin. It’s a great carburetor for economy and performance because partial throttle only opens the 32mm barrel while anything more than about 2/3 gives the 32mm barrel as well as the 36mm barrel – that’s how the carb got its name.


Old and busted booster (full of brake fluid for some reason?)


I had to massage those hardlines connected to the master cylinder in order to remove the booster… It wasn’t fun.


Pretty booster with the vacuum fitting still intact. Also it’s neat since it has the Ate sticker still on it and it’s not all rusty and gross.


Together and all buttoned up.


I hate that Prothane bushings are red but I sure as hell love how my swaybar endlink bushings hardly even move. I also bought a set of endlink bushings for the front, as well as chassis mounts for the front and rear. Unfortunately, they only make them for the stock sizes of 15mm and 16mm so in a week or two I’ll attack them with my dad’s drill press. With 19mm and 22mm swaybars, 3/4″ and 7/8″ (respectively) bits should work fine, right? Or should I try to go a little smaller for each in order to get some grab on the bar?